My 9-day road trip

Norway.
The road is the journey.

Ålesund → Bergen → Oslo. Fjords, a campervan, waterfalls, glaciers and Trolltunga, all in one practical guide.

9days8+key stops20–27km at Trolltunga

01 · the feel of the trip

Don’t try to fit the whole country into one trip.
Slow down and see one region properly.

“Norway’s best moments often happen on the road, when you round a bend, catch the view and immediately want to pull over.”

Capital: Oslo
Currency: NOK
Driving side: right
Best pace: 2–4 hours on the road

02 · full guide

Everything you need for the trip.
All in one place.

Twelve practical chapters, covering documents, budget, camper travel, food, useful apps and safe hiking.

Norway stretches a long way from north to south, so both the landscape and the climate change noticeably from one region to the next. It also has one of Europe’s longest coastlines and thousands of islands.

Norway’s famous fjords were carved by glaciers over thousands of years. Between the hairpin bends, tunnels, ferries, waterfalls and roadside viewpoints, getting there is often half the experience.

Capital: Oslo
Population: about 5.6 million
Currency: Norwegian krone · NOK
Language: Norwegian; English is widely spoken
EU: not a member
Schengen: yes
Driving side: right
Rule to remember: the road is part of the trip

Don’t try to cover all of Norway in one trip. Pick one region and give yourself time to enjoy it properly.

What to bring

passport
residence permit, if you live in another country
travel health insurance
proof of your accommodation or camper booking
driving licence
bank card

Customs

Norway has strict allowances for alcohol, tobacco and certain foods.
Check the current import limits on the Norwegian Customs website shortly before your trip.

Visa, immigration and customs rules can change. Treat this as a packing checklist, then confirm the final requirements with the relevant official authorities.

The official currency is the Norwegian krone. Although Norway is close to the EU, the euro is not used as its main currency.

As a rough guide, 1 EUR ≈ 11 NOK. Check the current rate before your trip, as exchange rates change daily.

On a road trip, supermarket shops and home-cooked meals make the biggest difference to your budget. A camper kitchen makes that especially easy.

Typical prices

coffee, about 40–60 NOK
a simple snack, about 60–120 NOK
a restaurant meal, from 200–300 NOK
fast food, about 100–200 NOK
supermarket groceries generally cost more than in most European countries

Camper costs to allow for

rental and insurance
fuel and gas
tolls and ferries
parking and campsites
food
activities and tours

These are rough prices from my own trip. Check current rates before booking and leave some breathing room in your budget.

Campervan / motorhome

I chose a campervan for my journey through the fjords.

wake up among the mountains instead of planning around hotels
change course when the weather turns or a beautiful stop tempts you to stay
I drove the Ålesund to Bergen section of this route in a campervan

Car

easy to build a route around Norway’s scenic roads
allow for tolls, ferries, tunnels and mountain bends
some high mountain roads close seasonally

Train

a comfortable way to travel between major cities
worth using for scenic rail journeys too, particularly Flåmsbana

Plane

saves time when you need to connect distant parts of the country
on my route, a flight linked western Norway with Oslo

Buses and shuttles

scheduled buses connect towns and popular sights
dedicated tourist shuttles run to the trailheads of well-known hikes

The rental fee is only part of the camper budget. Add insurance, fuel, tolls, ferries, parking, campsites, groceries, gas and any tours you want to take.

My organised trip cost €1500 and included the camper, insurance, ferries, tolls, fuel, bedding, cookware, gas, a grill, table and chairs, a driver, the itinerary and tour support.

What I paid on top

food, about €115
parking, about €115
sauna, about €15
Trolltunga shuttle, about €55

Six camper rules

build in extra time, because hairpin bends, ferries and photo stops all slow you down
check ferry times, but don’t be intimidated by the crossing; your vehicle comes aboard with you
check when high mountain roads are open
look up campsites and overnight stops early during peak season
the right to roam does not mean you can park a camper anywhere
fill up before heading onto remote roads

Allemannsretten gives people access to the countryside, but separate restrictions apply to vehicles, campers, private land and homes.

You usually drive straight through toll points without stopping to pay. If you bring a foreign-registered vehicle, sign up with Epass24 to make billing simpler.

FerryPay can charge ferry fares straight to your bank card, so you don’t have to wait for an invoice in the post. Terms and discounts vary between payment schemes.

Rental camper

ask first whether the vehicle already has AutoPASS
find out how the rental company bills tolls and ferry fares
don’t register a rental camper yourself until you have checked the rental terms

A ferry is part of the road journey, not a separate excursion. Include the wait for each crossing in your driving time.

Trolltunga · near Odda

about 20 km from P3 or 27 km from P2
roughly 7–12 hours, depending on your start point, pace and the weather
you need good fitness and a very early start

Kjeragbolten

the famous boulder wedged above Lysefjord
about 11 km
roughly 5–7 hours

Preikestolen

one of Norway’s most popular hikes
about 8 km
roughly 4–5 hours
a good choice for a big Lysefjord view without a day as long as Trolltunga

What to carry

hiking boots
waterproof jacket and warm layer
water and snacks
power bank
sunscreen
first-aid kit

Check the current trail and road status as well as the forecast before setting out. Conditions in the mountains can turn quickly.

From June to September, days are long and more tourist roads, mountain trails, seasonal ferries and shuttles are running.

Even in summer, the mountains can be cold, wet and windy. Sunshine, fog, rain and a sharp drop in temperature can all arrive on the same day.

Packing basics

waterproof jacket
comfortable hiking boots
warm socks
several clothing layers
hat or beanie
sunglasses
SPF
power bank

Pack for every kind of weather, whatever month you visit.

Fish, cheese and waffles

salmon, one of Norway’s best-known foods
cod and other fresh fish, particularly in coastal towns
brunost, a brown whey cheese with a sweet, caramel-like flavour
Norwegian waffles with brunost, sour cream or jam
seafood, especially in Bergen and other port towns
coffee, with cafés easy to find even in smaller towns

Pick a few cafés or restaurants you genuinely want to try, then make most breakfasts and dinners yourself. It keeps the food budget under control.

Roads and transport

AutoPASS, Norway’s road toll system
Epass24, registration and payment for foreign-registered vehicles
AutoPASS for ferry, ferry information and discount agreements
FerryPay, bank card registration for ferry payments
Vegvesen trafikk, live road, mountain-pass and traffic updates

Weather and hiking

Yr.no, one of Norway’s main forecasting services
UT.no, hiking routes and trail information

Camper travel

Park4Night, campsites and overnight parking spots
offline maps, a useful backup where the signal drops out

Before every hike, check the forecast, current trail status and the road to the trailhead. All three matter.

The essentials

Norway is expensive, so allow more for restaurants, alcohol and some tourist activities.
Keep the daily plan light. Mountain bends, ferries and roadside stops take longer than the map suggests.
Weather changes quickly, especially in the mountains. Keep waterproof clothing close at hand.
Book popular tours and Trolltunga shuttles in advance.
Check the seasonal opening dates for scenic mountain roads.
Supermarket shopping and cooking for yourself are the simplest ways to spend less.
Buy alcohol early and check Vinmonopolet opening hours.
A camper gives you freedom, but you still need a plan for fuel, parking, campsites, ferries and tolls.
Don’t rush. Some of the best moments happen on the road, not at a planned stop.
Always have a wet-weather alternative for rain, fog or a closed mountain trail.

If the weather rules out a hike, change the day instead of taking the risk. There is nearly always a good low-level alternative in Norway.

03 · my route

Ålesund to Bergen
+ finish in Oslo

Choose a point on the map or select a day to open the itinerary. Places you bookmark stay saved on this page.

Take an easy walk through the old centre and along the waterfront, then climb Aksla. From Fjellstua, you can see the town, islands and fjords. It is a fine first taste of Norway’s scale.

View over Ålesund, its islands and surrounding mountains from the Aksla viewpoint — Ålesund from Aksla · a town set between islands, mountains and the Norwegian Sea

Ålesund took on its present look after a major fire on the night of 23 January 1904. Most of the old town burned down and was quickly rebuilt in the Art Nouveau style.

Today you can wander past decorative façades, towers and spires, then reach the sea within minutes. Ålesund sits across several islands and remains an important port and fishing centre.

Don’t miss

a walk through the old centre and along the waterfront
the climb up Mount Aksla
views of the town, islands and fjords from Fjellstua
sunset for an easy finish to the first day

Don’t rush straight off to collect the camper after landing. Keep a few hours for the town and viewpoint first.

old centreAkslaFjellstua

town · panorama · sunset

Drive the hairpins past Stigfossen waterfall and stop at the Trollstigen viewing complex. Leave time for roadside stops, and always check that the road is open before setting off.

Trollstigen is one of Norway’s best-known tourist roads. Its hairpins thread between steep mountains, deep valleys and waterfalls.

There are 11 tight bends in all. The remarkable part is seeing how neatly the road fits into such a severe mountain landscape.

Don’t miss

driving the famous hairpin road
Stigfossen waterfall
the viewing platforms at the Trollstigen visitor centre
extra time for photographs and the camper’s slower pace

Check the official road status before setting off. Snow, rockfall and bad weather can all affect access.

TrollstigenStigfossenviewing platforms

camper · hairpins · waterfall

Take a small boat or ferry to see the fjord from water level. Then follow the Eagle Road up to Ørnesvingen, one of the best viewpoints on the route.

Geirangerfjord is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Norway’s most recognisable fjords. Snow-dusted peaks rise above the water, with waterfalls dropping from the cliffs.

Take a small boat or ferry to grasp the scale of the fjord. Afterwards, follow Ørnevegen, the Eagle Road, up to the Ørnesvingen viewpoint.

Don’t miss

Seven Sisters waterfall
The Suitor
Bridal Veil
the view of Geiranger from Ørnesvingen

A short distance on the map can take much longer here. Add time for the ferry, mountain bends and viewpoint stops.

Seven SistersØrnevegenØrnesvingen

boat · ferry · viewpoint

Walk up to one of the glacier arms. Only step directly onto the ice with a professional guide and the proper equipment.

Jostedalsbreen is the largest ice cap in mainland Europe. After the green fjords, the scenery changes abruptly to blue ice, bare rock and cold mountain valleys.

Like glaciers around the world, Jostedalsbreen is retreating, so the view may look very different in a few decades. Never walk onto the ice alone. Crevasses and unstable surfaces make it dangerous.

Don’t miss

a hike to one of the glacier arms
huge blocks of blue ice
a stark contrast with the fjords of the previous days
a guided glacier walk with a professional team

If you want to set foot on the ice, book a certified tour that provides the proper equipment. Going alone is dangerous.

glaciervalleyguided glacier walk

hike · ice · professional guide

Stegastein sits roughly 650 metres above Aurlandsfjord. After the viewpoint, continue along the seasonal Snow Road, where snow often remains well into summer.

Aurlandsdalen is often called Norway’s Grand Canyon. The main stop today is Stegastein, a platform that projects from the mountainside above Aurlandsfjord.

The platform is more than 30 metres long, about 4 metres wide and sits roughly 650 metres above the fjord. Continue across Aurlandsfjellet, the Snow Road, where banks of snow can linger through summer.

Don’t miss

the architecture of the Stegastein viewpoint
the glass barrier above the fjord
Aurlandsdalen
summer snow along Aurlandsfjellet

The Snow Road opens for only part of the year. Check its status again immediately before your drive.

AurlandsdalenStegasteinAurlandsfjellet

650 m view · architecture · snow

Start very early. Allow about 7–10 hours from P3 Mågelitopp, or 8–12 from P2 Skjeggedal. Book the shuttle and parking in advance, and keep the rest of the day empty.

Trolltunga juts out above Lake Ringedalsvatnet, and photographs barely convey the scale of the place. This is the longest and most physically demanding day of the trip.

Starting at P2 Skjeggedal means about 27 km and 8–12 hours on the trail. A shuttle to P3 Mågelitopp cuts the route to roughly 20 km and 7–10 hours, saving around 1–1.5 hours each way.

Suggested schedule

05:00 · wake up at Trolltunga Camping
05:45 · bus from the campsite
then · transfer to the trailhead
hike to Trolltunga and return without racing the clock

Don’t miss

a very early start
parking and shuttle booked in advance
spare time for changing weather and the photo queue
no other major plans that day

Keep the rest of the day empty. The weather, your group’s pace and the queue on the rock can easily shift the plan by several hours.

OddaP2 / P3Ringedalsvatnet

05:00 start · hike · wet-weather backup

Don’t plan this day minute by minute. In Hardanger, you’ll want to stop every few kilometres. Make time for Steinsdalsfossen, where the path takes you behind the falling water.

The Hardanger National Tourist Route is one of those days when the road itself is the attraction. Mountains, waterfalls, lakes, valleys and viewpoints keep appearing around the next bend.

Steinsdalsfossen is one of the best stops. A path runs behind the falling water, giving you an unusual view of the waterfall without getting soaked.

Don’t miss

Steinsdalsfossen
Bridal Veil
Hardanger’s mountain lakes and fruit-growing valleys
unplanned stops every few kilometres

Don’t schedule this day minute by minute. Leave plenty of room for places you spot along the road.

HardangerSteinsdalsfossenmountain lakes

scenic road · waterfalls · unhurried

Walk along Bryggen’s wooden waterfront and narrow lanes, then browse the fish market. Ride the Fløibanen funicular up Fløyen for a broad view across the harbour.

Bergen is Norway’s second-largest city and a handy base for fjord trips. Start at Bryggen, the historic wooden wharf listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

After the narrow lanes, fish market and harbour, take the Fløibanen funicular up Fløyen. The top looks out across the rooftops, port and surrounding mountains.

Don’t miss

Bryggen
the fish market
the old centre and waterfront
Fløyen and Fløibanen

Bergen is famous for rain. Put a waterproof jacket in your day pack even if the morning starts sunny.

Bryggenfish marketFløyen

city · market · funicular

Finish in the modern capital with the Opera House, Aker Brygge, Vigeland, Bygdøy and Holmenkollen. After the camper, mountains and fjords, the change of pace feels good.

After the camper, mountains and fjords, Oslo feels like a different Norway. There is modern architecture, museums, green parks and everyday city life beside Oslofjord.

Cruise ships dock right in the centre, so the city keeps its maritime feel even around the newest neighbourhoods and waterfront promenades.

Don’t miss

the Opera House and a walk across its roof
Aker Brygge
the Royal Palace and Karl Johans gate
Vigeland Park
the museum peninsula of Bygdøy
Holmenkollen ski jump

For a 9–10-day itinerary, spend 7–8 days in western Norway and keep another 1–2 days for Oslo.

Opera HouseAker BryggeVigeland

architecture · museums · Oslofjord

04 · mountain trails

Three hikes.

Hard

Trolltunga

The longest day of the route. Start early and keep a wet-weather alternative ready.

Distance: 20–27 km
Time: 7–12 hr
View score: 96/100

Parking and shuttle

Ready to hike0%

Mountain weather can change within hours. Check the forecast and current trail status in the morning.

When to go

July

The most reliable month for a first trip, camper travel and long mountain hikes.

05 · save it offline

Practical details
for the road.

Before entering Norway

Norway is not in the EU, but it is part of the Schengen Area.

Passport and, where required, your residence permit.
Travel health insurance and proof of accommodation or camper booking.
Driving licence and bank card.
Check the current customs allowances before travelling.

Leave extra time

The satnav says two hours? Add another one for the ferry, mountain bends, fuel and that waterfall you didn’t plan to stop at.

7–8 days in the west + 1–2 in Oslo

Wild Norway.
And modern Norway.

Two sides of the country in one route: fjords, mountain roads and a camper in the west; architecture, museums and Oslofjord in the capital.

Norway.The road is the journey.

Don’t try to fit the whole country into one trip.Slow down and see one region properly.

Everything you need for the trip.All in one place.

Ålesund to Bergen+ finish in Oslo

Three hikes.

Trolltunga

Kjeragbolten

Preikestolen

June

July

August

September

Practical detailsfor the road.

Before entering Norway

Tolls and ferries

Freedom, with a few rules

What to try

Digital tools for the road

Wild Norway.And modern Norway.

Norway.
The road is the journey.

Don’t try to fit the whole country into one trip.
Slow down and see one region properly.

Everything you need for the trip.
All in one place.

Ålesund to Bergen
+ finish in Oslo

Practical details
for the road.

Wild Norway.
And modern Norway.